Chadar Trek - Jan '16

I did my first winter photography trip to Ladakh in Jan ‘15 (http://ladakh--jan15.gopsview.com). In fact this was my first trip to a place with such a biting winter. The landscape, I saw and photographed in Ladakh was out of the world. During this trip a lot was talked about the Chadar Trek and a plan was made to do the Chadar Trek in 2016. I didn’t know what I am getting into but the landscape I experienced, made me to take the decision to do the Chadar trek.

The Chadar Trek or the Zanskar Gorge is a winter trail in the Zanskar region of Ladakh, in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. The approximate distance covered is about 200 Kms both ways and reaching an altitude of about 3390 M / 11,100 ft. The trek is done during the harsh winter months of Jan – Feb. In the local language ‘Chadar’ means blanket. Most sections of the Zanskar river, which is one of the mightiest rivers in Ladakh, freeze in winter and are covered by a thick blanket of ice. This frozen blanket or ‘Chadar’ is the only way of commute for the Zanskaris in winter, when all the routes are closed due to heavy snowfall and ice formation.

42 Ft. frozen Waterfall

Trekkers : Manish Lakhani and Chandra Mulpuri besides me and led by Manish Lakhani.

Travel Date : 3rd Jan 2016 to 20th Jan 2016

Company : Tundup Spiritual Trek (www.spiritualtrekladakh.com)

Leh can be reached by road and air. However in winter access by road is very restricted and air is the only other option. Delhi is the preferred airport as there are quite a few connections to and from Leh. The flights generally are in the early morning hours. In order to avoid the overnight flight and spending time in Delhi airport, I reached Delhi the previous day and stayed in a hotel close to the airport. I found this to be very convenient.

Aerial view from the flight to Leh

Our Schedule :

Day 1 (3/1/16) – Fly to Leh (Altitude 3500m)

2 – Leh – Acclimatization day (3500m)

3 – Drive to Chilling and trek to Tilad Do camp (3100m)

4 – Trek to Gyalpo camp (3170m)

5 – Trek to Dib Cave (3225m)

6 – Trek to Neraks camp (3390m)

7 – Trek to Dib Gongma or Sarak Do 3500m

8 – 9 - Rest Day in Zangla and explorer Snow Kingdom of Zangla and Zangla Fort

10 –Trek to Pidmo or Hanumil.

11- 17 - Trek Back to Leh.

18 - Back home

Ladakh, though altitude wise not very high (except for a few passes), there is definitely a shortage of oxygen in the air. One has to take extra precaution when landed in Leh, especially by air. It is important to provide adequate number of days for acclimatization. Acclimatization doesn’t mean resting or sleeping throughout. It is actually taking it easy with some mild walks. Alcohol should definitely be avoided as dehydration along with Oxygen shortage may create more issues. There are quite a few articles in the internet on consuming tables like Dimox to protect from high altitude sickness / Oxygen shortage. In my view the medicines are only for SOS. If the body can naturally take care of the altitude related issues then why go for medicines ?

The support staff, both in terms of quality and number, is an important element for a successful, enjoyable and more important a safe trek. There are many companies offering the Chadar trek at different price range. One should not take a decision just based on price but should be on other factors as well with support staff being the key. In our case we had 4 support staff to one trekker. This enabled adequate support staff to be with a trekker throughout the trek.

We got dropped in Chilling in a jeep and the trek started from here. From now on all that we will be seeing is only sheets and sheets of ice. The landscape acquires a pristine grandeur in winter as the trail enters into the gorge of the Zanskar. Throughout the trek one can see breath-taking views of ice-peaks and unexpected hanging icicles. The mirror like reflections of the peaks and sky in the water is something that can be admired for ever. Night experience with millions of stars staring at you and the white sheet of ice in the dark, is something that cannot be expressed in words but it has to be experienced.

Walking on frozen ice is certainly not an easy task. The trek lead usually walks ahead with a stick. He keeps knocking the stick on the ice and based on the sound he decides whether to walk on that path or take an alternate path. First day of walking is a challenge as we cannot walk the same way as we walk on a normal surface. I had quite a few falls on the first day as I wasn’t keeping my feet properly. I then realised that one has to walk like a duck. Since I wasn’t used to this type of walking, I had severe groin pain on the next day but then was fit from the third day onwards.

We left a few days earlier that the tourist season began. This has its own advantages and disadvantage. The advantage is that we did not see a soul in our trekking path and hence there wasn’t even a scratch on the ice path, and it was very clean. We were able to take some spectacular pictures. We were also able to get some good spots for camping. The disadvantage is that in a few places the ice wasn’t formed fully, result of which we had to climb the mountain, walk, find a place where the ice was formed, get down and continue walking. In a way this was interesting, challenging and adventurous. While walking on the ice one could see the water flowing underneath and also hear the squeaking sound of the ice which no doubt was nerve breaking. At times we had to walk along a narrow margin of ice, constrained by the canyon wall on one side and deep rushing water on the other. There were occasions where we had to crawl on our belly through a narrow passage.

The trek being in wilderness the stay was in basic tents. The support staff usually goes ahead and finds a good place for laying the tent. The tents are pitched either close to the frozen ice sheets or between mountains or a totally frozen river area. Toilets are usually in the open or a covered enclosure. Every meal is freshly cooked. Tea / Coffee is served in the tent. By the time the morning rituals are done the breakfast will be ready. During the day while trekking it is generally maggi or rice/dhal with tea / coffee. Every day the trek ends around 4 PM as the sun sets very early and is too risky By the time we reach the tent hot tea / coffee with hot snacks are served. Post this it is resting time. Dinner is served by 7 PM. The food served is absolutely delicious and healthy. Post dinner the most enjoyable moment is the bonfire and with temperature of -10 to -20 degree Celsius, this was a bliss. A caution on the jacket you wear while enjoying the bonfire. The sparks that come from the fire may spoil the jackets and hence it is important to take care of this.

Unfortunately we could not go to Zangla. We were stuck in two camp sites as the glacier water from mountains moved / melted the ice, result of which we could not cross the river. Due to the location shortcoming we could not even climb the mountain and find a suitable place to cross. We lost 3 days in the overall schedule and we could go only up to Nerak. Throughout the trek we did not have mobile connectivity. Only place from where we could call using a landline is the Nerak Village.

The Chadar trek is interesting, thrilling, adventurous, challenging and no doubt a life time experience. But this doesn’t come without a risk. There have been causalities. In my experience the only mitigation for the risk is by having the right support staff and strictly following their instructions. I am given to understand that there is a plan to build a road above the river that connects Leh and Zangla. While the road is definitely a more convenient way of commute for the locals, I am not sure as to whether the Chadar trek will continue in its current form. So, if you want to experience and explore Chadar trek, then don’t postpone it.

With the outstanding support staff

Glimpse of the trek :

And some fun element .....

To view the album --> http://chadar-trek--jan-16.gopsview.com