Atacama - Sep '23

Nomadic Road announced their trip Road to Atacama, covering the Atacama Plateau in Argentina and the Atacama desert in Chile. This trip was immediately after the Road to Bolivia, with just a gap of about 3 days between the trips. So having gone all the way to South America, I certainly didn’t want to miss out the opportunity of one more expedition (sorry may be an excuse !!). Road to Bolivia trip ended in in La Paz and I flew to Salta via Santa Cruz and Buenos Aires for the next expedition, Road to Atacama.

Tour Date                    : 27th Sep ‘23 to 7th Oct ‘23

Company                    : Nomadic Road

Our Expedition …

PC : Nomadic Road

26/9/23

Salta is from where our road trip started. The city of Salta is renowned for its colonial architecture, friendly population and claret-red ponchos. It lies at the foot of the eastern slopes of the Andes, in the only Argentine region where vestiges of Indian heritage are still visible. Salta is the gateway to the Northern region of Argentina. A small city with beautifully preserved colonial buildings and fine museums stands in stark contrast to the desolate wilderness that surrounds the region.

27/9/23

After taking delivery of our expedition cars the previous day, we started our expedition with lot of excitement which was visible in everyone’s face. Excitement due an unknown territory, anxiety as to the landscape that we can expect, challenges that we will face and so on.

Companion for the next 9 days

First day of our motoring journey was a fantastic drive across the Andes, through the infinity of the Puna Plateau. We had  a great crossing of the Humahuaca Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, driving through some interesting dirt trails.  And then the famous “rainbow,” a wash of earth-tone colours created by layered geological strata – Cerro de los Siete Colores (the Hill of the Seven Colors), located outside the town of Purmamarca. Our accommodation was at El Manantial del Silencio.

Rainbow Mountain

Hotel El Manantial del Silencio

28/9/23

We headed out of Purmamarca and its vibrant coloured mountains for an epic overland border crossing from Argentina into Chile. Driving along winding and dramatic trails through the Lipán Mountain Pass, located at 4,170 M, which offered an amazing panoramic views overlooking a rather stark landscape. As we continued our drive, on the other side, we could see the Salinas Grandes, one of the largest salt flats in Argentina. We drove through the Jama Pass located that had an elevation of 4283 M, located on the border between Chile and Argentina. It is the northernmost road border crossing between the two countries. The immigration check point had both the Argentinian and Chilean officers, side by side and hence the process was very easy. However it is important to have the right papers. While I took multiple entry Argentina visa, I did not take Chilean as this wasn’t required for road crossing with the right papers. Once we crossed into Chile, we headed straight to San Pedro De Atacama, located at 2500 M, on the north side of Atacama Salt Flat. The town is set on one of the many oases formed by the rains of the "Bolivian Winter" in Atacama Desert, the driest in the world. Our stay was at Hotel NOI Casa Atacama.

PC : Nomadic Road Lipán Mountain Pass

29/9/23

We were excited in anticipation of experiencing the Atacama Desert, volcanic summits, stunning white salt pans, undulating rock and orange rock and sand and Turquoise Lagoons, We started with Cordillera de la Sal (salt mountains) that was formed millions of years ago. Moulded through time by rain, wind and the Sun of the Atacama Desert, its final form was with a great variety of natural sculptures, different types of stratifications and varied colorations by the mineral diversity of the place. Post this we headed to Valle de la Luna with their otherworldly rock formations which is also known as the Valley of the moon due to the encounter of the Atacama Desert with the Andes mountain range produced by smooth slope changes. Our stay was at Hotel NOI Casa Atacama.

Variety of amazing landscape

30/9/23

Today we left very early to Geyser del Tatio locally known as Los Geysers del Tatio located within the Andes Mountains of northern Chile at 4,200 meters. With over 80 active geysers, El Tatio is the largest geyser field in the southern hemisphere and the third largest field in the world. Here we could see one of the most astonishing phenomena produced by nature with contrasting colours produced by the steam columns in the highest geothermal field in the world. From here we headed to the villages of Caspana, Chui-Chiu and Pucara de Lasana, which are called as “Out of the World Villages”. These highland village is characterised by the great development of alpaca and cactus wool crafts. Our stay was at Hotel NOI Casa Atacama.

Geyser del Tatio

1/10/23

We were told that today it is going to be an intense and challenging day of driving and we were looking forward to that. We started the day by driving through the hallucinatory landscapes of Salar De Atacama, the largest salt flat of Chile and the second largest in the world. The lake under the salt flat has one of the largest lithium reserves in the world. We also had the unique opportunity to drive through  some of the Dakar rally sections used in the past. From here we headed towards the high-altitude lagoons of Minique and Miscanti at an  altitude of 4120 M, that offered us a  majestic panoramic views of an Altiplano desert surrounded by towering volcanoes. From here we crossed into Argentina via the Sico Pass at 4092 M. And today we had one of the lifetime experience of camping in a very special place with no infrastructure, a salt flat, Salar de pastos grandes. The evening started with a lovely sunset followed by an absolute clear sky where we could see the milky way through naked eyes. The camping experience was certainly very unique with temperature dropping almost to zero.

PC : Nomadic Road Camping @ Salar de pastos grandes

2/10/23

We started the day by driving through Salar De Arizaro, located near Tolar Grande, the largest in Argentina and the third in the world. From the salt flats we headed south towards Cono de Arita, a rather mysterious place and which has the most amazing natural formations. We then continued our journey south towards Salar de Antofalla, located in an inhospitable and inaccessible place in Argentine Puna and which holds the record for being the longest salt flat in the world. With no water, no vegetation and only capricious shapes, shaped by erosion over millennia, it is the only thing we could see for dozens of kilometres around. From here we headed to Antofagasta de la Sierra to spend the night. Our stay was at Hostería Complejo Pucara.

Salar De Arizaro

Salar de Antofalla

3/10/23

Today we left Antofagasta de la Sierra and headed towards Galán Volcano, one of the largest exposed calderas in the world and that  forms part of the Central Volcanic Zone of the Andes, one of the three volcanic belts found in South America. The road was a gravel road, rocky, tippy and bumpy and we were cautioned that  one mistake can have serious consequences. We then drove through the Laguna Grande which is home to one of the world's largest populations of James flamingos.  It was  an extraordinary sight to see the flock of flamingos.  From Laguna Grande, we then reached Cerro Galán, which is one of the largest craters in the world, with a diameter of about 30 km. We enjoyed the  magnificent views of the Puna "catamarqueña" and then we continued our drive through the amazing dirt trails and mesmerizing landscapes all the way to El Peñon. Our stay was at Hosteria El Peñon.

Laguna Grande

Cerro Galán

4/10/23

The plan for the day was to have some adventure and fun.  We reached Duna blanca, the towering snow-white dunes where we had planned a 4x4 driving experience on the untrodden rippling sand and along the ridge which shimmers against a cobalt blue desert sky. Unfortunately we couldn’t do as planned due to vehicles getting stuck in deep sand and strong wind. We had to restrict ourselves in enjoying the outstanding landscape. Continued our stay at Hosteria El Peñon.

Duna blanca

5/10/23

After days of intense travel on the High Desert Plateau finally today we were back at civilized altitudes with more oxygen to fill our lungs.  Along the way, we passed through the charming village of Hualfin: meaning "City surrounded by fortifications. We took a 4x4 track to Route-40 to visit the pre-Columbian ruins of Quilmes, a sacred city dominating the Yokavil valley, notably the two small perched fortresses. And after all the adventure we reached Cafayate, a pretty town in the Calchaquíes valleys, famous for its vineyards, among the best in the country. This village, located in the heart of the Calchaquies valley in the province of Salta, is internationally known for the quality of its wines, the mildness of its climate, the kindness of its inhabitants and the beauty of its landscapes. We stayed at Patios de Cafayate, a fine hotel with old world luxury.

Today we also had the opportunity to experience one of the finest vineyard - Amalaya Vineyard. We were treated with exquisite food and fine Malbec wine.

Amalaya Vineyard

6/10/23

Today we left Cafayate in the direction of the "Quebrada de las Conchas" which offered undoubtedly the most spectacular landscapes of the Argentine Northwest with  imposing and semi-desert mountains with multi-coloured rocks sculpted by erosion. We then continued our journey and took the Route-40 leading to desert landscape and crossing the "Quebrada de las Flechas", geological formation representing rock spires that rise towards the sky. We arrived in Molinos, a small colonial village dating from 1659. Our stay was at Hacienda de Molinos.

Quebrada la Yesera

Hotel Hacienda de Molinos

7/10/23

Today was the final day of our epic motoring journey, taking us to the final destination Salta from where we started our expedition.

We continued our driving until we reached the colonial town of Cachi, which lies at 2200 M. Cachi is a tranquil Andean village featuring low-whitewashed houses and the San José Church with its sculpted roof of cactus-wood dating back to the eighteenth century. We drove through spectacular landscapes offered by the Piedra del Molino mountain pass at 3600 M, the Quebrada de Escoipe, a deep gorge where the green of the wood’s contrasts with the ochre of the soil on the bare mountains of “Cuesta del Obispo” and Los Cardones National Park composed of stark expanses scattered with candelabrum-shaped cacti, until reaching Salta. We stayed at Hotel House of Jasmines one of the finest hotels in Salta.

Los Cardones National Park

Hotel House Of Jasmine

Note : Day wise itinerary details - Courtesy Nomadic Road

I was very keep to Photograph Gauchos. A Gaucho is a skilled horseman reputed to be brave and unruly. Gaucho is a folk symbol of Argentina and many other countries in South America. They also can be referred to a country person experienced in traditional livestock farming. On the last last day I was lucky to witness a Goucho festival with hundreds of them, families, kids, elderly people, coming in the colourfully decorated horses.  

Gaucho family

Gaucho festival

Argentina / Chile - A land where nature is still the owner; a land of colours and silence, where the sheer size and beauty of the landscapes is truly humbling. An unknown territory for most people, it is a land that leaves its mark. Exploring what this otherworldly landscape has to offer required some effort, but it more than paid off.

PC : Nomadic Road Beautiful Landscapes

Unfortunately it’s time to bid adieu to this beautiful country  While waiting to board my flight all I could see was a movie flashing – driving across elevated plateau of wildly striking and desolate landscapes, challenging trails of the Worlds ultimate rally – Dakar, salt flats, rainbow mountains, flamingos, ancient Incan trails, desert labyrinths, herds of llamas and volcanoes, the turquoise lakes, clay-brick pueblos, the challenges we faced, vineyards, finest hotels where we stayed, mouth-watering food (no issues being a vegetarian and off dairy products), Malbec wine and of course the friendly group.

Driving Stats :

Our driving terrain and landscape encountered ......

Note : The videos were taken while driving and hence excuse the quality. Most of the videos, courtesy Deepak M, my partner in crime !!

 A glimpse of the landscape encountered ...

 Amazing and Lively group :

Finally a summary of the entire trip captured by the Nomadic Photography Crew ....

 To view the Album --> https://atacama-sep-23.gopsview.com/