Jallikattu - Jan '14

Is Jallikattu a sport or a festival or a cultural event? Probably it is a combination of all. Jallikattu is an event played in Tamil Nadu during the Pongal festival time which generally falls around January 14th. Jallikattu is celebrated in many villages in Tamil Nadu – Alanganallur & Avaniapuram in Madurai, Palemedu near Madurai, Thammampatti in Salem to name a few. I decided to go to Alanganallur as I am told this is the most famous one.

Though I am born and bought up in Chennai (lived there for almost 3 decades), going to witness Jallikattu has never been in the agenda. Thanks to my photography hobby I decided to explore this event. I went there first in 2013. I wasn’t too happy with my output and hence I visited again in 2014.

I took a hopping flight to Madurai via Chennai and stayed in Madurai for a night. Alanganallur is about an hour drive from Madurai. The street has only one house that has a terrace and a small balcony in the 1st floor with a perfect view. One of my friend knew someone there and he took me to that place. I had to be there by 430 AM in order to get a proper place while the event starts only at 6 AM. After about half hour I was swarmed with people around me. The entry cost per person was Rs. 500 for the terrace and Rs. 300 for the balcony. This is the only day, I guess they can make money. Around 530 AM I got my cameras out, ready to shoot as and when the bulls come out of the exit gate for the courageous men to tame the bull.

The rules were very strict. No one is allowed to catch the bull by the horn or the tail. Only place one can hold is the hump. Once the hump is held, the person can hold only till a yellow flag mark, which is probably about 50 meters from the exit gate and has to leave the bull free after that. Those who are successful in holding the bull till the yellow flag or hold till the bull is tamed, gets a prize ranging from fridge, cycle, vessels, cash etc. with the grand prize of a motor bike. The cops constantly watch the men in the ring. If someone mis-behaves or doesn’t even attempt to hold the bull, are immediately moved out of the ring and they are not allowed to come back.

Photographing Jallikattu was torturous for me. Starting at 4 AM till 2 PM, I was standing with my camera in a constant position and without even taking a bio brake for fear that someone will take my place if I move out. After I returned to the hotel and while having a couple of beers, was thinking whether this was worth it. But when I saw my pictures after processing, the pain at Alanganallur was nothing and was definitely worth it.