Majuli - Dec '21

My last trip in 2021 – Majuli, Assam, and what a great way to end the year !!

Majuli is a riverine island in the Brahmaputra River, Assam and in 2016 it became the first island to be made a district in India. It had an area of 880 square kilometres (340 sq mi) at the beginning of the 20th century but having lost significantly to erosion it covers 553 square kilometres (214 sq mi) as at 2014. Majuli has shrunk as the river surrounding it has grown.

Mighty Brahmaputra

Majuli, the largest inhabited river island in India, is situated in the north-eastern state of Assam. Majuli means land in the midst of two rivers. It is formed by the Brahmaputra River in the south and the Kherkutia Xuti, a branch of Brahmaputra joined by the Subansiri River in the north. Majuli has shrunk tremendously over the years due to climate change, erosion, flooding of Brahmaputra etc. The main industry is agriculture with paddy being the chief crop and now of course tourism. Despite inherent drawbacks faced, modernism has touched this island, with the setting up of medical centers and educational institutions. Housing, too, has segued from traditional bamboo and mud construction to ones made of concrete. The island has been the hub of Assamese neo-Vaishnavite culture and there are quite a few Satra or Monasteries following this religion and culture.

Source : Internet

Majuli is 20 km from Jorhat. One can take the bus or a combination of taxi and ferry. Majuli is also connected by bus from Guwahati, capital of Assam. We flew into Dibrugarh and drove to Majuli, which is approximately 4-5 hours by land from the northern side.

It was an absolutely serene feeling in the island. All that one can see in the village – greenery, water bodies, live stocks, boats, people cycling everywhere ...

Art work in Majuli

Travel Date : 18th Dec ‘21 to 24th Dec ‘21

Company : Darter Photography led by Manish Lakhani and supported by Mirza Zulfiqur

The trip was to capture the foggy conditions, sunrise and the sunset. Every day the feel of sunrise and sunset was different and was totally mesmerising.

Foggy conditions

Sunrise

Sunset

Being in the East it was an early sunrise and early sunset. Our routine was to leave at 5 AM, return to base around 9, leave again by 3 PM and return around 6. We also had the opportunity to visit Garmur Mishing Village, Samaguri – a well-known mask making centre, Uttar Kamalabari Satra (monastery) and Salmora, a pottery village.

Garmur Mishing Village – A beautiful village with traditional bamboo houses. Each house has a no wheel drive vehicle (boat) parked that will be used during monsoon / floods. People are so friendly and nice.

Bamboo houses in the village

Samaguri – This is run by Dr. Hem Chandra Goswami who is also the Satradhikar (managing head) of Samaguri Satra. He got his Phd in mask making from Guwahati university in 2017. He also received the Sangeet Natak Academy award, Government of India, in 2018. The family has been doing this since 1963. His work has been exhibited in British museum, London. There are multiple stages in making a mask. In the first step a frame is made with locally sourced bamboo. In the next step different pieces of cotton cloth and potters clay is put over the frame. After drying another layer of cotton cloth and clay is used. Finally it is painted with desired colours.

Various stages in Mask Making

Demonstration of the Masks

And some fun element .....

Sri Uttar Kamalabari Satra, is one of the famous and cultural monastery in Majuli. We spent time interacting with the Bhakats (devotee). We also had an opportunity to see the dance performance.

Bhakats in Satra

Gayan Bayan dance in the Satra

Salmora, a pottery village – Pottery is one of the oldest village industry of Majuli. The village is located on the banks of Brahmaputra thus making it easy for transportation of completed pots to various places in Assam. I am told that there are about 600 to 700 families in that village making pottery. Everyone, male/female, old/young are involved in this.

Pottery in the village ..

We had a free morning and was wondering what interesting activity that we can do. Three of us decided to explore village in a cycle and that was a great decision. We did about 17 KMS, riding inside a remote village through narrow lanes, crossing wooden bridges, enjoying the vast mustard field, riding through bamboo trees, crossing any wooden houses and so on. The ride gave us a complete village experience and this is something I will cherish.

Cycling in the village

Village experience ..

During our entire stay, lunch and dinner was at local homes and one day in Sri Uttar Kamalabari Satra and was mostly vegetarian food though non-vegetarian option was also there. Every meal had at least 3 vegetable dishes besides dal. And the best part is that the rice and vegetables are home grown and organic.

I am told that during monsoon time the village looks totally different and I may probably plan a trip to see the different landscape of Majuli.

Group in action

To view the album --> https://www.majuli-dec-21.gopsview.com/